The quagmire of case materials: Titanium is more than just "lightweight"
Titanium is not just about being "light."
Titanium watches are becoming more and more popular.
What we need to talk about is Grade 2 and Grade 5.
When talking about titanium cases, the first words that come to mind are "lightweight," "rust-resistant," and "hyperallergy-friendly."
Of course, that's true, but the fun of titanium lies beyond that.
Metals that are close to "abnormal values" when viewed numerically
The reason titanium is suitable for watches is because its physical properties are quite unique.
・Weight is about 60% of that of iron or stainless steel
・It has a very high specific strength, making it easy to ensure high strength even with a light weight.
- Low elasticity and flexible
→ It tends to "dodge" rather than "accept" impacts
・High corrosion resistance ( resistant to rust, corrosion, and deterioration )
- There is little ion elution ( the phenomenon in which metal ions dissolve in sweat ), so metal allergies are less likely to occur.
It's actually quite rare to have all these metals in one place.
Ideal for a watch...or so I'd say, but here's the problem.
The reason for the slow spread of the technology is the difficulty of processing it.
Titanium began to be used in the watch industry in earnest around 1980.
Japan (Citizen, Seiko) was the first to produce commercially available models in the 1970s, followed by the Swiss in the 1980s, and now it has become a common material.
However, it took a long time for it to become widespread simply because it was difficult to process.
・Tools are prone to break during cutting
- Easily retains heat and dimensions are difficult to stabilize
・Finishing is prone to unevenness
"It's light but difficult to make" - this was titanium's biggest weakness.
There are two main types of titanium used in watches
Currently, the titanium commonly used in watches can be broadly divided into two types.
・Grade 2 = Pure titanium
Grade 5 = Titanium alloy (Ti (titanium) - 6Al (aluminum) - 4V (vanadium))
This difference directly affects not only the fit but also the quality of the finish.
Grade 2: Ideal as a material, but difficult to make into a watch
Grade 2 is pure titanium, which offers the best of titanium's qualities, such as lightness, corrosion resistance, and hypoallergenic properties.
On the other hand, turning it into a watch presents challenges.
・Cutting accuracy is difficult to stabilize
・It is difficult to maintain sharp edges
・It is difficult to achieve uniform hairlines and polish.
For this reason, it was once said that "titanium is functional, but its texture is inferior to that of steel."
Grade 5: Titanium that has been "made" into a watch
On the other hand, Grade 5 is an alloy. Its typical composition is as follows:
・Titanium approx. 90%
・Aluminum: approx. 6%
・Vanadium: Approximately 4%
Alloying brings about important changes to the watch.
・The color is easy to match with stainless steel
- Increased surface hardness and improved scratch resistance
・High dimensional stability makes it easy to achieve high processing accuracy
- Sharp lines and polishing are easily achieved, which was difficult with pure titanium.
As a result, it is now possible to realistically create cases that look high-quality despite being made of titanium.
This is why many manufacturers have adopted Grade 5 in recent years.
Which is the "best" watch material?
The conclusion is simple.
・Purity of material, titanium-like quality, hypoallergenic → Grade 2
・Appearance and durability as a watch → Grade 5
In reality, I think the common understanding in the industry is that "Grade 5 is considered higher because it is easier to calculate the overall score."
The real difference is "within the same Grade 5"
Here's what enthusiasts should look out for.
・Are the finishing edges smooth?
-Is the boundary between satin and polish clear?
-Is the surface not distorted and does it pick up light evenly?
・Have you completely eliminated the unevenness that is unique to titanium?
・I felt a sense of tension in a good way when I saw the real thing, not just in a photo.
Titanium is different not so much because of the name of the material, but because of which brand has gone to great lengths to finish it.
It's no wonder that German manufacturers, who don't engage in flashy advertising, are quietly strong in this field.
Titanium is a material that you can tell the moment you hold it.
If you want to experience the benefits of grade 5 titanium in a short amount of time, a model with a large case is the easiest way to do so.
Even though it's the same size, the moment you pick it up you feel that it's lighter, and you can also sense the high quality of the exterior.
TUTIMA GLASHÜTTE is one of the leading brands that is serious about this type of "machinable grade 5 titanium."
You can see such a film at CONTÉVANOU.
Store information : 〒151-0053
Nishi-sando Terrace E1, 28-7 Yoyogi 4-chome, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
TEL: 03-3299-8008
WEB: https://www.CONTÉVANOU.com/