From Russia with Love
Search for the maker of the "gold watch" presented to Daikokuya Kōdayū by Catherine the Great.
Tracing the lineage of late 18th-century French luxury pocket watches from the illustrations in "Hokusa Bunryaku"
The story of Daikokuya Kōdayū is not just a tale of shipwreck.
It's about an Ise ship captain who was shipwrecked, survived the harsh Russian winter, and eventually met with Catherine the Great, paving the way for his return to Japan.
Within this dramatic history lies another element that watch enthusiasts cannot overlook.
That is the "gold watch" Kōdayū is said to have received from the Empress.
This watch is depicted in the "Utensils" section of "Hokusa Bunryaku," compiled by Katsuragawa Hosyū, and is also described on the Cultural Heritage Online as illustrating the medals, watches, tobacco cases, etc., that Kōdayū and Isokichi received from the Empress, but its current whereabouts are unknown.
So, who made that gold watch?
At present, no primary source indicating the maker's name has been found. However, by combining the elements of iconography, period, court culture, and the context of late 18th-century French luxury watches, we can narrow down the candidates considerably.
*Only an unidentified manuscript of an Art Deco style clock from existing materials
Daikokuya Kōdayū and Catherine the Great. In what context was the gold watch given?
First, let's confirm the historical facts.
After being shipwrecked, Daikokuya Kōdayū traveled to Russia and in 1791, met with Catherine the Great. The explanation from the National Archives also confirms that Kōdayū met the Empress and requested to return to Japan. The relationship between the two remains unclear due to a lack of historical documents.
And in the "Utensils" section of "Hokusa Bunryaku," items received by Kōdayū and Isokichi from the Empress—medals, watches, and tobacco cases—are depicted. What is important here is that this watch was not a grand palace clock, but a gift-quality watch for personal use. Therefore, it is natural to consider Kōdayū's watch as a luxury pocket watch worn on the body, separate from the indoor decorative clocks of Catherine's Palace.
At this point, the candidates for the watch are considerably narrowed down.
A "gold watch" bestowed by royalty upon a foreigner would appropriately be a luxury pocket watch that embodies cultural prestige, as well as being a practical item. In Europe around 1791, luxury watches from France, Switzerland, and England were best suited for this role. Given the French taste of the Russian court, it is reasonable to suspect a French luxury pocket watch first.
Characteristics of the watch visible in the "Hokusa Bunryaku" illustration
Looking at the published illustration, this watch has several characteristics.
A round case, a white dial, hands that appear blue, a decorative long chain, and double Arabic numerals. These elements strongly suggest a courtly gift watch rather than a mere utilitarian timepiece.
However, it is important to note here that this drawing is a sketch, not a photograph.
The National Archives also states that "the watch, microscope, etc., are meticulously copied." This means that while it is a very important historical document, the details of the dial's numbers and hands may not be strictly reproduced exactly as they appeared on the real object.
For example, the double Arabic numerals visible on the dial may seem unusual to modern watch enthusiasts. However, 18th-century pocket watches do exist with 24-hour displays showing 1–12 alongside 13–24. The British Museum's collection also includes a white enamel dial pocket watch with 1–12 and 13–24 inscribed. Therefore, the double numerals in this illustration are not at all unnatural.
Watch culture used in Catherine the Great's court
So, whose watches did Catherine the Great's court accept?
The first name that comes to mind is Russian inventor Ivan Kulibin. In 1769, Kulibin presented an exquisite egg-shaped clock to Catherine the Great and was subsequently appointed head of the Imperial Academy of Sciences' mechanical workshop. This shows that the Empress highly valued watches as political and cultural symbols.
On the other hand, the Russian court not only favored domestic production but also actively embraced Western luxury watches.
Therefore, while the possibility remains that Kōdayū's gold watch was domestically produced in Russia, it is highly probable that it was a Western, especially French, luxury pocket watch. This is a natural assumption, considering that Catherine the Great's Russian court was the recipient of the most refined tastes in Europe during the late 18th century.
★ Narrowing down the candidates 🔭
Leading watchmakers of late 18th-century French luxury pocket watches
From here on, this is purely conjecture.
However, when considering the conditions of a gold pocket watch, a courtly gift, blue hands, and a neat white dial around 1791, the candidates can be somewhat organized. The relationship between France, Russia, and Switzerland at that time is also important.
1. Abraham-Louis Breguet
The first candidate that must be mentioned is Abraham-Louis Breguet.
According to Breguet's official history, he founded his company in 1775, introduced the so-called Breguet hands in 1783, and Breguet numerals in 1786. This means that by 1791, when Kōdayū received the gold watch, Breguet was already active as Paris's most refined luxury watchmaker.
The blue hands seen on this watch would immediately remind any watch enthusiast of Breguet.
Of course, blue hands themselves are not exclusive to Breguet. However, the combination of blue hands, Arabic numerals, and a simple dial leans strongly towards Breguet's aesthetic within late 18th-century French luxury watches.
However, a definitive statement cannot be made here.
The decisive features that make Breguet what he is include the combination of the "moon-tipped" holes on the hands, the unique typeface of the numerals, guilloché decoration, and the signature. These cannot be deciphered from the "Hokusa Bunryaku" illustration. Therefore, what can be said at this stage is that "Breguet is the primary candidate, but it cannot be definitively concluded."
2. Jean-Antoine Lépine
Another strong candidate is Jean-Antoine Lépine.
Lépine was the royal watchmaker to Louis XV and is known for the Lépine caliber, which promoted the thinning of pocket watches. The Metropolitan Museum of Art's explanation also states that his watches were renowned for their "slim elegance" in pre-revolutionary Paris.
Lépine is also known for his active use of Arabic numerals.
Therefore, if the double Arabic numerals visible in the "Hokusa Bunryaku" illustration reflect the impression of the actual object to some extent, it could suggest Lépine's style of dial design. Furthermore, considering that Breguet himself was strongly influenced by Lépine in his younger days, it is reasonable to propose Lépine as a candidate, representing a broader context of French luxury watches, while possessing a neatness similar to Breguet's.
3. Robert Robin
The third candidate is Robert Robin.
Robin is known as a watchmaker for royalty and courts during the reign of Louis XVI, and the Metropolitan Museum of Art houses a Parisian pocket watch from ca. 1790 by him. The period perfectly aligns, and it also fits well with the character of a "courtly gift."
Robin's appeal lies in his elegance, which is luxurious yet not overly experimental.
If Kōdayū's gold watch was not as innovative in design as Breguet's, yet still a sufficiently prestigious piece for a courtly gift, it is quite possible that it was a work by a royal watchmaker like Robin.
So, who is the closest match??????
To summarize, the priority of candidates is as follows:
First candidate: Breguet?
Second candidate: Lépine system?
Third candidate: Robin?
The biggest reason for this order is the blue hands and neat dial visible in the illustration.
While these two points are seen in late 18th-century French luxury pocket watches in general, they first evoke Breguet's sophistication. Next, if Arabic numerals and a thin, simple design are emphasized, Lépine follows, and then Robin for courtly prestige.
However, it must be emphasized again and again that there is no document definitively identifying the maker.
The "Hokusa Bunryaku" depicts only the image of the received item, and decisive elements for identifying a watchmaker, such as dial signatures, movement inscriptions, case interior engravings, or hallmarks, are not visible. Therefore, this discussion is merely a "narrowing down," not an "identification."
How to position this watch in the story of Catherine the Great and Daikokuya Kōdayū
This gold watch was not merely a gift.
It was a crystallization of court culture bestowed by the Empress at the pinnacle of the Russian Empire upon a shipwrecked ship captain from Japan. For Kōdayū, it must have been a testament to the generous treatment he received in a foreign land and a symbol of Russian civilization that he could bring back to Japan.
And from the perspective of watch history, this gold watch is a rare record of how late 18th-century European luxury watch culture appeared to Japanese eyes. As the National Archives indicates, its appearance was "meticulously copied." This not only reflects a sense of wonder at the time-telling machine but also a gaze towards the sophistication of the court world.
That is why the endeavor to find the maker of this watch is meaningful.
Even if the conclusion is "cannot be definitively identified as Breguet himself," Breguet, Lépine, and Robin, representing the forefront of late 18th-century French luxury watchmaking, emerge in the background. Kōdayū's gold watch is not only a story connecting Russia and Japan but also a historical document casting a shadow of Parisian luxury watch culture.
The maker of Kōdayū's gold watch is currently unknown. But is Breguet the primary candidate!?
The conclusion that can be drawn from the currently available historical materials is as follows:
Kōdayū met Catherine the Great in 1791 and received gifts, including a watch, from the Empress.
That watch is depicted in the "Utensils" section of "Hokusa Bunryaku."
From its iconography, it appears to be a gold luxury pocket watch, fitting for a courtly gift.
There is no direct documentation indicating the maker.
However, based on the period, design, and context of court culture, the most likely candidate is a late 18th-century French luxury pocket watch, especially one from the Breguet lineage, followed by the Lépine lineage, and then Robin. Please try to unravel this mystery.
In other words, the story of this watch is not over yet. That small, round watch remaining between the lines of historical documents continues to pose the question to us: "Whose work was this?" It might also be interesting to trace the history connecting Patek, Chapek, and Breguet. It might also be interesting to research the activities of watchmakers from France, Czech Republic, Ukraine, Turkey, and other countries.
To all watch fans who have already solved this mystery, please contact Contevanou.
We are not just watch sellers, but an atelier in Yoyogi that researches and archives the history and philosophy of watches.
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At Contevanou, an authorized dealer of watches and jewelry, we carefully guide each piece, including the charm of mechanical watches, the history behind them, and the aesthetic sensibilities of each brand.
Beyond modern wristwatches, you can enjoy the profound world of watches from perspectives related to watch history, personal histories, and craft culture, as discussed here.
We conclude this article with a wish for peace in a time when wars are still raging. As the meaning of freedom is once again questioned, I hope this provides an opportunity to reflect on what freedom truly means. I hope this also serves as an opportunity to re-examine the chain of art and industry, politics and religion.
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