Why do diamonds sparkle? The aesthetics hidden within the 58 facets of a round brilliant cut
The World of Exquisite Cutting: Mastering Light
There is one element that is indispensable when discussing the beauty of a diamond: the "cut."
A diamond cannot produce that brilliant sparkle we all know simply by being transparent.
Capturing light, reflecting it internally, and releasing it back out—it is through a cutting process that precisely calculates these movements of light that the diamond’s inherent beauty is brought to life.
Among these, the cut that symbolizes the diamond is the "round brilliant cut."
Composed of a rounded outline and 57 or 58 precisely placed facets (polished surfaces), it cleverly utilizes the reflection and dispersion of light to create a rich brilliance.
Within that tiny gemstone breathes the wisdom and techniques of master jewelers, polished over many long years.
The Three Parts of a Diamond
The round brilliant cut is broadly composed of three parts: the "crown," the "girdle," and the "pavilion."
Each plays a different role in supporting the diamond's beautiful sparkle.
Crown
This is the upper part of the diamond.
Its role is to capture light and release the light returning from within back to the outside.
The large, flat surface at the very top is called the "table," and it is a crucial part that influences the diamond's appearance and the movement of light.
Girdle
This is the outer perimeter of the diamond, located at the boundary between the crown and the pavilion.
It forms the outline of the stone and also plays an important role when setting the diamond into jewelry.
Pavilion
This is the lower part of the diamond.
It plays a critical role in reflecting the light captured inside and returning it to the top.
At the very bottom of the pavilion is a tip called the "culet." If this is polished as a small flat surface, that surface becomes the 58th facet.
In other words, a round brilliant cut is composed of either 57 or 58 facets, depending on the presence of a culet.
Each of these individual surfaces is precisely placed with consideration for the path of light.
Cut Quality: Determining the Beauty of Brilliance
The "4Cs" are known as the global standard for evaluating diamond quality.
These are composed of the following four factors:
Carat: Weight
Color: Color
Clarity: Transparency
Cut: Polish and Cut Quality
Among these, the cut is an important factor directly related to the diamond's brilliance.
The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) diamond cut grading system comprehensively evaluates the face-up appearance, design, and craftsmanship of standard round brilliant cuts within the D to Z color range.
Cut Quality is Classified into the Following 5 Grades
Excellent
Very Good
Good
Fair
Poor
Cut evaluation is not determined solely by the number of facets.
It is a comprehensive judgment based on various factors, including the proportions of each part, the quality of polish, symmetry, and the interaction with light.
Even with the same round brilliant cut, differences in the finish result in differences in the brilliance that reaches our eyes.
The Three Types of Light Emitted by a Diamond
The beauty of a diamond is not just about the intensity of light reflection.
Its brilliance is primarily expressed through three visual elements.
1. Brightness
The white light returned from the inside and surface of the diamond.
It creates a bright, clear impression that seems to well up from deep within the transparent gem.
2. Fire
The rainbow-colored light that appears due to the dispersion of light entering the diamond.
Colors such as red, blue, and yellow shimmer, giving the diamond a vibrant expression.
3. Scintillation
The interplay of light and dark, or the sparkle that appears when the diamond or the observer moves.
Even the slightest change in angle alters the expression of the light, creating a sense of lively radiance.
The harmony of these three elements creates the depth of beauty unique to a diamond.
This brilliance cannot be fully captured in a static photograph.
By actually holding a piece of jewelry and changing the angle slightly, you can experience the rich, shifting expressions of light.
Diamond Brilliance and the NANIS Aesthetic
An exquisitely polished diamond is beautiful enough on its own.
However, when that light meets a different material—gold—the expression of the jewelry becomes even richer.
Italian Jewelry Brand, NANIS
What characterizes NANIS jewelry is the delicate hand-engraving applied to 18K gold.
By using special tools to engrave fine details onto the surface, artisans give the gold a unique texture that softly reflects light.
The clear, crisp brilliance emitted by the diamond.
And the silky, gentle light created by the hand-engraved gold.
The layering of these two distinct materials gives rise to the sophisticated beauty unique to NANIS.
A round brilliant cut diamond serves not only as the star of the jewelry but also demonstrates its charm as a delicate accent that enhances the texture of the gold.
It is glamorous, yet naturally blends into everyday attire.
This is also part of the appeal of NANIS jewelry, which is only truly completed when worn.
Understanding Light to Enjoy Jewelry More
A diamond polished into 57 or 58 facets.
Each one of those facets holds exquisite technology designed to draw out the beauty of light.
By understanding the mechanics of this brilliance, you may find new discoveries in the diamonds you once gazed at without a second thought.
And when that light meets gold crafted by the hands of artisans, the jewelry reveals yet another expression.
At CONTÉVANOU, an authorized watch and jewelry retailer in Yoyogi, Tokyo, we showcase NANIS jewelry.
The brilliance of the diamond and the texture of hand-engraved gold that photos alone cannot convey.
We invite you to experience this beauty for yourself at our store.
Authorized Watch & Jewelry Retailer CONTÉVANOU
Nishisando Terrace E1, 4-28-7 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours: 11:00–19:30 (Closed on Wednesdays)