A manual winding watch is not a hassle. It's a watch you can "engage" with.
A manual winding watch is not a hassle. It's a watch you can "engage" with.
Quartz watches are close to the pinnacle of precision and practicality.
A battery vibrates a quartz crystal, an IC keeps the rhythm of the seconds, and a step motor moves the gears one step at a time. A monthly accuracy of around ±20 seconds is readily achievable even with mass production.
Still, some people choose mechanical watches.
Moreover, there are people who choose to "choose hand-rolled" among them.
The reason is not simply that it is "old" or "rare."
This is because manual winding does not just mean "using" a watch, but also gives you the freedom to "face" the watch.
1. The first interesting thing about mechanical watches is the process of making time.
In a mechanical watch, the power of the mainspring is transferred to the wheel train (the flow of gears), and the escapement, which consists of the escape wheel, anchor, balance, and hairspring, adjusts that energy into "equally spaced ticks."
The force of a mainspring is not uniform: it is strong immediately after being wound and weakens as it unwinds.
The reason why a watch can still keep accurate time is because the escapement intermittently releases and controls energy, giving the balance wheel a regular periodic back-and-forth motion.
If quartz is a mechanism for "adjusting to an accurate standard,"
Mechanical watches are tools whose "mechanism itself creates rhythm." This is where the romance and immersion lie.
2. Automatic and manual winding: Even though they are both mechanical, they have different "characters"
Even though manual winding and automatic winding have the same power source (mainspring), the sense of distance from the watch is different.
Automatic winding:
The rotor rotates with the movement of the arm, and this rotation winds the mainspring via gears.
The biggest advantage is that it is less likely to stop if you continue to wear it. On the other hand, the rotor mechanism increases the structure, which tends to increase the thickness and weight of the movement.
Manual winding:
It does not have a rotor, and the mainspring is wound by operating the crown.
Instead, the structure is simple and allows for a high degree of freedom in design. It is thin, light, and the center of gravity is easy to adjust.
And best of all, you're left with the feeling that you're powering the watch yourself.
3. Advantages of manual winding ①: The act of winding also serves as an inspection.
Manually wound watches stop. That's why you have to wind them. This "one extra step" actually increases the satisfaction of watch lovers.
When you turn the crown, your fingertips feel a slight change in resistance, along with a clicking sensation at regular intervals.
This occurs when the ratchet clicks over each tooth of the ratchet wheel, and is proof that torque is being transmitted reliably to the mainspring while preventing reverse rotation.
This mechanical feedback is a feeling that is unique to purely mechanical watches and is not present in electrically driven watches.
This is not just a simple operation, but more like communicating with the watch.
Furthermore, touching it every day (or once every few days) makes it easier to notice changes.
"It's hard to reel today," "It's catching," "The sound is different" -- the advantage of hand-winding is that you can quickly notice such small irregularities.
4. The Advantages of Hand-Wound Watches ②: Thinness and Lightness are Both Aesthetic and Rational
There is no rotor.
This one point gives hand-wound watches a unique solemnity.
・Easy to design a thin case
Easy to keep weight down
-Fits better on the wrist
- Does not get caught on jacket cuffs
Not only does it look smart, but it also puts less strain on your arm when you wear it.
The reason why many thin and elegant dress watches are hand-wound is not just for the sake of appearance, but also because of their structure.
5. The Advantages of Manual Winding #3: The View from the Back is Uninterrupted
The real appeal of a see-through back is that it allows you to see the movement as a whole, not just as a "part."
In the case of automatic winding, the rotor covers nearly half the area of the movement (this is not the case with micro-rotors), so while you can enjoy the shape and decoration of the rotor itself, it inevitably acts as an obstruction when it comes to "visually following" the continuity of the gear train, bridge arrangement, and finish.
On the other hand, manual winding watches have a clear view because there is no rotor.
The lines of the bridges, the rising edge of the chamfers, the direction of the grain (such as the Côtes de Genève), the meshing of the gears and the arrangement of the bearings (ruby) all appear to be one continuous, uninterrupted beauty.
Furthermore, the winding mechanism - the ratchet wheel/ratchet wheel, click, and the shape and finish around the barrel - are often at the center of attention.
And above all, the vibrations of the balance wheel "fascinate" the viewer.
Balance, hairspring, escape wheel and anchor.
This series of movements is visible within the movement, unobstructed by the rotor.
It is certainly true that hand-wound watches, designed with the premise of being "showy," often compete on the basis of the finish and structure of the back.
6. Precision: The appearance of a manual winding watch changes depending on the condition
While quartz watches are known for their high accuracy, mechanical watches are on a whole different level of precision.
With mechanical movements, results vary depending on conditions such as temperature, posture, friction, lubrication, and changes in spring torque.
In particular, with manual winding, the amount of winding is likely to affect accuracy.
When the mainspring is fully wound, the oscillation angle (the angle at which the balance wheel moves) tends to be stable, but as the remaining winding amount decreases, the movement changes.
That's why people who like hand-rolled sake prefer to wind it at the same time every day.
Rather than "suppressing" accuracy, it feels more like trying to keep the watch happy.
7. How to roll by hand: Tips for comfortable rolling and avoiding breakage
Basically, wind the crown clockwise (many models cannot be wound counterclockwise).
The guideline is 20 to 30 times (varies depending on power reserve design)
Stop winding when it becomes hard and you feel it can no longer turn.
Do not forcefully continue winding.
If you experience any problems such as "I can't wind it up," "it suddenly becomes heavy," or "it gets caught," it is safer to stop and have it inspected.
8. The background to "I can't roll": Before a small problem becomes a big problem
There are more reasons why a hand-wound watch may stop winding than just a simple malfunction.
There are several ways for this to happen, including dirt, rust, lack of oil, foreign objects getting into the area around the crown, and deterioration of the waterproof gasket.
The winding efficiency has decreased, the crown is stiff, and the power reserve has shortened.
This is an obvious sign that an overhaul is needed.
If you continue to operate it forcibly, it may lead to damage to parts, so the best thing to do is to "stop" any discomfort as soon as possible.
9. Overhauls are not for after something breaks, but for nurturing it.
Mechanical watches can be restored to their original condition by disassembling, cleaning, oiling and adjusting them.
The value of an overhaul is that it also allows you to care for the exterior, such as replacing the waterproof gasket.
The general rule of thumb is to replace it about once every three years, but this can vary depending on the environment and frequency of use.
Since manual winding watches are touched more frequently, it is easier to notice changes.
The smartest thing to do is to take advantage of these benefits and get things in order while the symptoms are still mild.
10. People who look good with hand-rolled cigarettes
A hand-wound watch is not a "universal" watch.
But it hits home for those who are touched.
・I want to enjoy watches as mechanisms rather than just as tools.
・I like thin and neat fit
・I want to take a closer look at the scenery behind the scenes
・I rotate multiple bikes and have no qualms about stopping.
・It's actually fun to put in a little effort every day
Manual winding transforms a watch from something you own into something you have a relationship with.
The few seconds it takes to wind up your watch will help you make your day a little better.
It would be nice to have a watch like that.
Discover the charm of hand-wound watches at Comptoine
TUTIMA Patria
The appeal of hand-rolled wine cannot be explained in theory alone.
The density of the clicks when winding, the feeling when it stops winding, and the heartbeat of the balance wheel visible on the back scale.
And the slim case provides a comfortable fit - these things make sense the moment you actually touch it.
A watch like the TUTIMA Patria, which combines the structural beauty of a hand-wound watch with quiet elegance, is a prime example of a "watch you can get involved with."
We want you to experience the parts that cannot be fully conveyed through photographs in person.
Authorized distributor: CONTÉVANOU
CONTÉVANOU is an authorized dealer of watches and jewelry with a store located in Nishisando, Shibuya Ward, Tokyo .
The distortion-free mirror surface and sharp ridges achieved through Zaratsu polishing, which are the charms of MINASE, are areas that cannot be fully conveyed through photos or specs alone. You can hold the actual product in your hands and carefully check the way light travels and the precision of the surface.
We handle everything from pre-purchase consultations to after-sales service as an authorized dealer, repairs, and maintenance. Our store offers a calm atmosphere where you can appreciate the true perfection of your watch. We also accept reservations.
CONTÉVANOU
Store information : 〒151-0053
Nishi-sando Terrace E1, 28-7 Yoyogi 4-chome, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo CONTÉVANOU
TEL: 03-3299-8008
WEB: https://www.contevanou.com/