TRILOBE: An Interview with Gautier Massonneau in Japan!!
Bringing Watchmaking Back to Paris. The Long Time and Resolve Embodied in X-Nihilo
TRILOBE is an independent watch brand based in Paris, France.
Recently, TRILOBE founder and CEO Gautier Massonneau visited Japan, and CONTÉVANOU had the opportunity to speak with him directly.
The conversation centered on "X-Nihilo," TRILOBE's first manufacture movement.
And the "Trente-Deux," the model created to house this movement.
However, what left the deepest impression after hearing him speak—even more than the specs or the new mechanisms—was
"How much time and thought went into reaching this point," and how they carefully considered "quiet luxury" by embedding "architecture, poetry, and philosophy" into a wristwatch.
I had the chance to hear directly from Gautier Massonneau about the aesthetic of a watch driven by the words of a French independent watchmaker himself.
TRILOBE’s First In-House Movement, Born Over a Long Period
X-Nihilo is not merely an existing movement modified with TRILOBE's signature display mechanism.
From concept, design, and development to prototyping, component machining, finishing, and assembly, this movement was born to allow TRILOBE to delve deeper into the art of watchmaking.
What I felt after speaking with Gautier-san is that the goal was never simply to "make an in-house movement."
Since its inception, TRILOBE has been consistent in its philosophy: reading time via rotating rings rather than hands.
Instead of conforming themselves to the conventions of existing watchmaking, they chose to build the machine itself for the sake of the watch they wished to express. X-Nihilo was necessary for that.
It wasn’t just about designing the movement, but about creating the environment to actually manufacture it. An incredibly long time was spent on this.
Simply saying, "It features a new in-house movement," barely conveys the background of the X-Nihilo.
To make three heavy discs rotate steadily at all times, they performed countless experiments to perfect a mechanism that operates solely on disc rotation, and somehow managed to integrate it into the X-Nihilo. It was the Paris-based independent workshop Trilobe that led this to success.
It wasn't just the completed movement, but the creation of the very environment required to produce it that I felt was the most critical part of understanding this movement.
"In Paris, Not Since Breguet"
There was one story in this interview that left a particular impression: the effort to establish a full-scale watchmaking infrastructure in Paris.
In Gautier-san’s words, he described it as "an event that hasn't happened in Paris since Breguet."
The Breguet referred to here is Abraham-Louis Breguet, who exerted a massive influence on watch history while based in Paris during the 18th and 19th centuries.
Of course, the watch industry itself did not disappear from France after his time.
However, rebuilding a watchmaking system within the city of Paris—encompassing design, development, component manufacturing, and assembly—is a monumental task.
What TRILOBE is undertaking may be a greater challenge than mere brand growth; it is the mission to "make watches in Paris once again."
This was a fascinating topic, because TRILOBE is moving beyond being a brand that simply designs Swiss watches in Paris.
They create their own watches, with their own philosophy, from their own place. Completing them in France—in Paris. X-Nihilo is the symbol of that endeavor.
X-Nihilo is Not a Movement for Chasing Specs
X-Nihilo is an automatic movement designed to support TRILOBE's unique time display.
Yet, while looking at the actual piece and listening to Gautier-san, I felt that listing numbers alone could never fully convey the fascination of this movement.
What makes it distinctive is its structure and its "negative space." A bold void is created near the center of the movement, designed to make the presence of the balance wheel stand out.
Rather than covering the mechanism with large rotors or bridges, they strip away everything except what is meant to be seen.
This philosophy resonates with the TRILOBE watch itself. That is why, when looking at the X-Nihilo,
I get the impression that it is "a movement that gives form to the philosophy of the TRILOBE brand," rather than "a movement intended to show off technical prowess."
And Thus, the "Trente-Deux" Was Born
The collection born with the X-Nihilo is the "Trente-Deux." It incorporates the ingenious time-display method TRILOBE has built to date, where time itself moves instead of hands.
Combined with a new case design, a new bracelet, and an in-house movement, it is, at first glance, a very elegant watch for TRILOBE.
However, when you actually try to read the time, it is indeed different from an ordinary watch.
The numbers on the dial move. Time itself moves. And the human eye reads that motion from a fixed indicator.
The philosophy that TRILOBE has upheld since its founding—
"It is not that hands indicate time, but that time itself moves."
—has not changed.
Rather, with the completion of the X-Nihilo, TRILOBE has become a TRILOBE not just in external design, but down to the very interior of the watch. I believe the Trente-Deux is exactly that kind of timepiece.
What I Felt During My Conversation with Gautier
A discovery as a watchmaker and a retailer.
First, I noticed that the stainless steel watch was fitted with a rubber strap. A prominent overseas web magazine had stated, "It is a pity that it is a stainless steel integrated model; it would be better if there were other variations." We had assumed that only the integrated stainless steel model existed.
However, I discovered a spot on the integrated stainless steel belt that can be rotated with a single screw, which I confirmed on our store stock.
When I asked Gautier Massonneau-san about it, he explained that by turning the screw, the strap can be swapped for other options prepared by TRILOBE.
I suspect that the overseas magazine wrote their interview after handling a prototype. However, being able to easily switch to rubber or leather confirms to me once again that this is a work rich in fashionability, especially for regions with four seasons like Japan (and France).
What impressed me most from speaking directly with Gautier Massonneau-san was the fact that TRILOBE approaches watchmaking on a very long-term timeline.
As a young brand, they could have released more new models.
They might have announced more easily understood complications.
However, TRILOBE spent a long time creating a single movement, and even built the environment to produce it themselves.
This is certainly not an "efficient" choice.
But for an independent watch brand, isn't it precisely in those areas that cannot be explained by efficiency alone that the brand's true individuality appears?
From the perspective of a retailer that sources watches and sees various brands every day,
"In-house movement"
is not a rare term these days.
What matters is whether the brand itself has an answer to the question,
"Why was it necessary to make it yourselves?"
TRILOBE has that answer. To complete a TRILOBE watch, a TRILOBE movement was required.
After hearing him speak, that is what I felt at CONTÉVANOU.
Making Watches Once Again, from Paris
TRILOBE is still a young independent watch brand.
Yet, what they are aiming for is by no means small.
To design a watch.
To engineer a movement.
To manufacture parts.
To have watchmakers assemble them.
And to gather all of these elements back in the land of Paris.
X-Nihilo is not just a new movement.
I believe it is one answer to the question TRILOBE posed to itself:
"What kind of watch maison do we want to become?"
And now, having spoken directly with Gautier Massonneau, the spirit behind the Trente-Deux has become much clearer to me than it was before.
A watch is interesting just to look at as a finished product.
But to know—
Who made it.
Why they made it.
And how much time they spent to make it.
Once you know these things, the watch becomes even more fascinating.
Where will TRILOBE go from here?
We at CONTÉVANOU look forward to seeing the rest of the journey with great anticipation.
*We would like to express our deepest gratitude to the Noble Styling team for inviting us to this valuable interview with TRILOBE founder Gautier Massonneau.
It was a very precious opportunity to hear the brand's philosophy and passion for watchmaking directly from Gautier-san himself. As a technician, I am deeply grateful for this wonderful experience.
TRILOBE Authorized Retailer: CONTÉVANOU
You can view actual TRILOBE timepieces at CONTÉVANOU.
Please come and hold them in your hands to experience the world of TRILOBE, which has evolved through its ingenious time displays, case designs, and now a new in-house movement.
Authorized Watch and Jewelry Retailer CONTÉVANOU
Nishisando Terrace E1, 4-28-7 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 151-0053
Business Hours: 11:00–19:30
Closed: Wednesdays
